Lewis’ western side their first stop. The upright stones are almost as old as their famous cousins at Stonehenge in England. Needless to say, however, fewer tourists make the trek to Callanish; come wintertime, about the only visitors milling about are the sheep delicately nibbling the grass around the ancient construction. From Callanish, head straight to Carloway Broch, an Iron-Age Viking tower overlooking the Atlantic, several miles to the north. Afterwards, the circuitous route takes travelers to the Garenin Blackhouse settlement. The Gaelic-speaking inhabitants of the Hebrides have developed their own particular method of farming based on the concept of the croft house, a small family farm; the Garenin Blackhouse, affiliated with SYHA, provides modest bunks in a croft setting (tel. 01851 643416, 6.50 pounds). The Arnol Blackhouse, farther north and more accessible from the main road, provides an example of a croft house at work in addition to exhibits on crofting. Finally, no visit to Lewis would be complete without a quick trip up to the comically-named Butt of Lewis, the island’s northernmost point and the sight of some truly spectacular views, and the nearby Port of Ness, one of the best surfing beaches in all of Scotland. With luck, this circular route can be accomplished within one or one and a half days, given patience with the erratic bus system and some good planning. Those with neither the time nor the patience can rent cars in Stornaway starting from 16 pounds per day-not a bad price to pay for the added flexibility and the chance to explore sights off the bus route. Those with more time on their hands would be wise to head southward from Stornaway into the Isle of Harris, where golden hills turn into misty mountains, providing a stark contrast between the two joined islands.
Regardless of your method of transportation you choose, remember to breathe deeply and take in the views. There’s something in the peaty air, in the yellow barren hills, and in the crystal-clear lochs. The atmosphere, the clouds in the distance, and the glowing orange grass combine to create a truly eerie and beautiful scene. You swear you’ve seen it all before, in a dream perhaps. Only this time, it looks completely different.
