Towering over the Mausoleum of Sultan Hasan is Cairo’s main fortress, the massive Citadel, built by the legendary Saladin, or rather by the many prisoners he took during the. The Citadel once housed the sultan’s palaces and offices, but most of these buildings were destroyed in the 19th century to make way for the grand Mosque of Mohammed Ali, modeled on the great monuments of Istanbul. Mohammed Ali was a great admirer of France, and decorated the interior in a lavish style inspired by the Rococo decorations of French palaces. The ornate clock in the courtyard was a gift from France in return for the obelisk that now stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris; Egypt’s rulers were somewhat miffed at having traded a perfectly good obelisk for a clock that broke soon after delivery. From the terrace next to the mosque you can look out over the city in all its vastness, the skyline dotted with medieval minarets standing out ahead of the modern office blocks in the distance.
North of the citadel is the famous Khan al Khalili bazaar. The bazaar occupies a tangled warren of narrow streets crowded with merchants selling souvenirs, jewelry, spices, and perfume. Amidst the tourist dregs there are some well made items, especially jewelry and boxes inlaid with mother of pearl. All prices here are negotiable and be sure to bargain hard to get a good price. Fishawi’s Cafe is a great place to catch your breath in between bargaining or admiring mosques. This cafe has been open day and night for the past several centuries; gossiping neighbors and tired tourists all converge on Fishawi’s for a refreshing cup of mint tea or a leisurely smoke on a water pipe (sheesha).
