As you’d expect from the location steps away from the grands magasins, this café draws a mix of visiting nationalities during the day, replaced after hours by a more Gallic crowd of couples deep in conversation. Make for the first floor, and if you’re lucky, you’ll arrive as one of the tables by the huge front window becomes vacant – an unbeatable viewpoint across to the Palais Garnier, especially romantic despite its grime, as the blue Paris evening darkens. Inside, four fans connected to a pulley wheel rotate idly above a plush décor of wood panelling, velveteen seats and wine memorabilia – wine posters, maps of wine-producing regions and polished table-tops made from wine casks. Prices are par for the course; you can also eat snacks at all hours.
